月別: 2014年5月

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Kawari musubi

For Yukatas, a word “Kawari musubi” is often used when we tie an obi. This is a collective term applied to tying methods without unique names. Please note that this is not a name of a particular tying method. Hanhaba-obi (half-width obi) is casual and because no rules are applied to it, Kawari musubi is often created using this type of obi. On the other hand, you can use Kawari musubi with Fukuro obi which is initially designed for formal scenes. In fact, a lot of people enjoy Kawari musubi with Fukuro obi. Particularly for Furisode, tying Fukuro obi in a way of Kawari musubi makes it gorgeous. Nagoya obi is relatively short, so it is unusual to tie a Nagoya obi in a Kawari musubi.

Kawari musubi is a kind of improvisation by a Kimono dresser, and usually each of them has no name.
Therefore, it is often difficult to ask your dresser to make the same Kawari musubi as what you saw by describing its appearance. If you would like the dresser to tie your Fukuro obi in the same way as one in a magazine, you should show the clip. As for Hanhaba obi, it is enjoyable to think various Kawari musubi by yourself.

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Tsuno-Dashi

When you say tsuno-dashi now, it refers to a casual way of knotting Nagoya obi which goes with tsumugi (pongee) or komon (fine pattern). It is popular for its refined way of knotting. In fact, tsuno-dashi has been long around even before the otaiko-musubi (drum knot), which is currently more major.　However, tsuno-dashi in old times was slightly different from the current one in terms of its way of knotting. What is common between the two is how the tips of obi from both sides of the part called otaiko is shaped. That shape that you see is called “tsuno”, and this way of knotting the obi is called “tsuno-dashi”. Now, tsuno-dashi are made using obijime (decorative string) and obiage (obi bustle).　In old times, obi were not wrapped completely. The tip of tare (the edge of obi) was left under obi, pulled through halfway, made into a ring and hung.

This method of knotting obi needs no obijime or obiage, but but it is too short for current Nagoya obi and too long for fukuro obi (double-woven obi). When Nagoya obi and fukuro obi started being used widely for otaiko-musubi, tsuno-dashi evolved too so to adapt these obi. As a result, the length that was suitable for old tsuno-dashi is no longer in use. There is this method of knotting obi called Ginza musubi which is like tsuno-dashi. However, the difference between “Nagoya obi’s tsuno-dashi” and “Ginza musubi” is not clear, and different people have different opinions about it.

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Kanto Maki and Kansai Maki

Even within Japan itself, how kimono are worn often differs from place to place. Giving an example with a big difference, there is this difference in wrapping obi from right to left and from left to right. When obi is wrapped from right to left in front of your body, it is called Kanto Maki. And the other way round is called Kansai Maki. As the names imply, Kanto Maki is mainly seen in the eastern Japan and Kansai Maki is mainly seen in the western Japan. Other than the case where there is a difference in tesaki (starting point)’s starting point being right or left, the complete look after wrapping the obi is the same for both methods.

However, you should be careful that different part of obi’s patterns that are on the ventral side (hara-mon) may appear depending on what method you use, Kanto Maki or Kansai Maki. You will regret if you do not select an obi with patterns that appear as you like with the easier wrapping method for you when you wrap the obi yourself. When you have someone to wrap an obi for you, make sure you check which side of the patterns is to appear and clearly tell the person of your preference. it comes in handy if you can wrap your obi in 2 methods. You can use different sides of obi with two types of hara-mon, or you can use the other side of obi when one side is stained.

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Shinafu

Shinafu” is a fabric woven with fibers come from bark of Shinanoki (Tilia japonica). Its derivation is unknown, but it is considered as one of the oldest fabric in Japan. There is actually a record indicating that this fabric was paid as tax in Heian era. Shinafu is durable and waterproof and thus, even after cotton became popular for clothing, Shinafu has been widely used for practical items such as bags to preserve grain or to strain alcohol.

In Showa Period, chemical fabric which could be produced massively was introduced, and shinafu which was difficult to make rapidly decreased, but its wild particular style has been loved and living as basis for fashion accessories such as obi, hats and bags. Once upon a time, it was woven in various places of Japan, but they keep producing it mainly in an area of Yamagata Prefecture and another of Niigata Prefecture these days, too. Shinafu in these regions is registered as a Japanese traditional manufacturing product in the name of uetsushinafu, and groups of producers of it are putting in an effort like trying to maintain techniques to make it and obtain ingredients for it.

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Shifu (Paper Fabric)
Shifu is made by weaving paper yarn just like weaving thread. When papers are used for both tate-ito and yoko-ito, it is called “Moro-Shifu”. When silk yarn is used for one of them, it is called “Kinu-Shifu”, and it is called “Men-Shifu” when cotton yarn is used for one of them. Papers are first made into thread. So you don’t feel that stiffness of papers, and it is actually light and strong. Shifu began to be produced in the Edo period. Initially, they was made using papers that were out of use.
Later, dedicated papers began to be produced while improvements were made. Shiroishi City of Miyagi Prefecture is well-known as a production area. Originally, production of Japanese papers was prosperous in this area. On the other hand, it is believed it may be because cotton and silk were valuable in there. In the Edo period, the Date domain, who was governing this area, encouraged production of shifu. And they became known as they began to be used as offerings.

Now, shifu are highly valuable as the number of producers has decreased, but they are still widely distributed as popular materials.
Though not many, they are produced as tanmono (roll of clothes). They are light and easy to fasten, so they are often used as obi fabrics.