月別: 2014年6月

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History of the Yukata

It is said the word origin comes from the word [Yukatabira] worn to protect a persons body from burn injuries from the steam while using the steam baths in the Heian Period of Japan. The Yukatabira then were used to wipe water much the same as a bathrobe after bathing. It then became a common form of simple clothes for wearing to and from the bathouse among common people during the Edo Period. There are still sometimes those that say [Yukata are not for wearing outside], that opinion stems from the historical use of them as bathrobes.

However, what is referred to today as a Yukata, is completely different from the thing of the past.
From the middle of the Showa Era after the ‘Kimono Culture’ dipped temporarily, a new [Easy to Wear Kimono] began in the 1990’s. This new type of Yukata became very popular with the younger generation, and this is thought to be the start of the new ‘Yukata Culture’.
Conventional Yukatas for example are provided to guests in Japanese Inns to wear in the room or over their pajamas, these are clearly different from the elegant types of Yukatas.

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If you are considering purchasing a Yukata, you can choose either tailor made or off the shelf. If you have plenty of time and budget then a tailor made then you can have one made that suits you perfectly by consulting a kimono shop, the finish of these garments is of course the best. However, these days ready to wear, cheaper, off the shelf garments are mostly sold. What you must be concerned with when purchasing an off the shelf garment is choosing your size. Most of the commonly available Yukata are freesize, designed for a person of 160cm in height with a little spare. The Yukata looks best with a shorter in both the length and sleeve. In fact finding sizes for taller or solidly built persons is not very problematic.

On the other hand slimmer or shorter people will often find the sizes too big.
There are some brands that offer an S size but, where there is only a freesize available, order made shops can possibly tailor a garment to a smaller fit to suit you.
Please consult them.

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The latter half of the 16th century, ruled by Nobunaga Oda and Hideyoshi Toyotomi, are called Azuchi Momoyama era, and the time between 17th to 19th century is called Edo era. The feature of those eras was the major development of the culture due to the fewer number of wars which contributed to the stability of the common people’s quality of life. Majority of the Japanese kimono has become short sleeved as a result of samurai families and common people became more powerful than the aristocrats.
Also, foreign trades were very popluar in Azuchi Momoyama era, and the decoration technique of the short sleeve became very competitive. Furthermore, those successful merchants with a big fourtune through trading became found of gorgeous outfit, which resulted in developing the extraordinarily beautiful short sleeves. It appears that there were no major difference in the outfit of male and female in the common people.

In Edo era, comparing to the female short sleeves that have changed dramatically, that of male did not really incorporated many changes. As a result, such difference of the outfit by sex has become more remarkable. One reason behind the scene is said to be the defined and bipolarized concept of the role with the distinction of sex, which forced male following the social rules and regulations while female remained to be free.

Today’s Kimono and Obi are the result of such evolution females have developped with their free mind, soul, and spirit.

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Clothes from Kamakura to Muromachi Period

In end of 12th century, the power center of the caste stated to move from nobles to Samurais.
Ages till the first half of the 14th century, when the Shogunate was located in Kamakura, is called Kamakura Period. Then the shogunate is moved to Kyoto. The period after Kamakura Period till 16th century is called Muromachi Period. Samurais have became powerful raisin up from ordinal people.
That is why they prefer to wear like normal people do rather than waring heave and binding ones.
In this way, closing tradition was established. They basically wear light clothes except for when they have to wear in formal armored style.

As the time goes, another type of clothing is developed by samurais. They reduced the layers of Sokutai and called it “Hihitare” and they also reduced layers of Juunihitoe and called it “Uchikake.”
Common people wore short sleeves as they had since the Heian period. According to some documents, they made the hem very short and fold the part that went below the waist and fastened it with strings. It later becomes Ohashiori (The part that has been folded is referred to as Ohashori), but it looked a bit different from what it is right now because thick obis were not used at the time. Also, common people began to improve their wealth and their clothing became more gorgeous as a result.