Sakizome

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Sakizome

Sakizome is to dye a yarn before the weaving process and the product itself using such yarn are also called so.
The sakizome kimono is called “woven kimono” and the sakizome obi is called “woven obi”. In contrast to this, atozome is to dye a fabric woven by a white yarn.While sakizome allows to dye into the core and retain the color from losing and fading, the color can’t be changed by dyeing later or a pattern cannot be added later. The texture of the original yarn may change since the process for dyeing will be added to the raw yarn. Tsumugi is a typical sakizome product which has different individuality based on the production regions.

The most simple sakizome product is without a pattern but there is not that much product without any pattern.
As for kimono, stripe pattern and lattice pattern are woven using several colored yarn in general. Kasuri method is used for more elaborate product. As for obi, a more elaborate pattern will be woven. There are Hakata-ori and Nishijin-ori for typical sakizome obi.

Kasuri

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Kasuri

Kasuri is a cloth woven by yarn-dyed threads to produce designs. It may sound easy to do, but actually, it requires high techniques and time to make as the yarns should be dyed back-calculated from the designs on the completed cloth and the cloth should be woven as designed.The dyed yarns are called “kasuri ito”, and further classified as “tate kasuri” (warp kasuri), “yoko karusi” (weft kasuri) or “tateyoko kasuri” (warp and weft kasuri) according to the direction/directions in which the yarn is used.

Kasuri ito is dyed after the yarn is partly twined with other threads to leave such parts undyed.For dyeing the yarn, most of the producers follow the method to twine the yarn with anti-dyeing threads, but there is another way of doing this by weaving in anti-dyeing threads by a weaving machine. This method allows delicate dying that hands cannot do, and for example, the elavorate designs of Oshima Tsumugi are produced by the yarns from this method.A hand woven Kasuri is a treasure that requires several months of work of a highly skilled craftman.At present, the techniques are preserved as ones of the traditional craftworks, while for the products for the general public, the production processes have been widely mechanized to achieve affordable costs.

Sikkai

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Sikkai

“Sikkai” is a Japanese word that means “all” in English.But this word means “a trader who undertakes anything about kimonos” in the kimono industry. The words “Sikkaiya” and “Sikkaigyo” have that same meaning as “Sikkai.”
You probably wonder what’s the difference between a kimono shop and “Sikkai.”The answer is,a kimono shop sells kimonos and “Sikkai” undertakes repairs and processing of kimonos.

For example,”Sikkai” wash kimonos,but a kimono shop doesn’t do that.
And these days,it’s difficult to find “Sikkai” immediately. In many cases people consult a kimono shop which will find Shikkai easily, and the shop will introduce Shikkai to them. Not a few kimono shops also do Shikkai business even if it is another one. There are various jobs of Shikkai. Ordinally people will ask them to do “Maruarai” (wash a kimono just as it is), “Shiminuki” (stain removal) and “Kakehagi” (invisible mending). They also do “Sumpo naoshi” (alteration), “Somekae” (re-dyeing) and “Mon-ire” (drawing family crest) as a little larger scale jobs. When you often wear kimono, you should find Shikkai whom you can ask such jobs freely. He/She will help you in the nick of time.

 

Kitsukeshi

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Kitsukeshi

Kitsukeshi is a person who dresses kimono on people. However, the people who can’t wear kimono do not always ask kitsukeshi to dress them. Even people who can wear kimono by themselves often ask kitsukeshi to dress formal kimono on them.

At the end of Heian period, pompous attires began to be in fashion among people in high position. And a special tequnique is needed to dress the attire beautifully. The technique is called “emondo”, and the person who dresses the attire on people with this technique is called “emonsha”. This emonsha is thought to be the beginning of kituskeshi. This profession was needed by only people of upper class in those days. In Edo period, however, when wide obi is getting popular among common people, kitsukeshi as the present days is said to have appeared. Kitsukeshi is not a recent profession but a profession from old days against our expectations. In most cases maiko of Kyoto is dressed by men kitsukeshi. This is because kimono of maiko is really gorgeous and heavy, and it needs power to dress it on her.

Why the instruction for wearing Kimono is different depending on books.

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Why the instruction for wearing Kimono is different depending on books.
When you try to learn how to wear Kimono by yourself using internet, you maybe find some different pages in different ways.
Even published books,can be different depending on authors. There is not correct way or procedure to wear kimono.
If you can wear it beautifully in the end, it is all right. The descriptions on internet or books are the best and easiest way that authors learned through their experiences.

This is why the method differs a little depending on the person who writes. If you can’t do it well with the instruction of one book, refer to another book and you may be able to do it better.In the kimono wearing class of a house where a person teaches, the teacher will teach the method which he/she thinks is the easiest way. In the kimono wearing class of a big school, the method and process are specified in detail. Unless you want to become a teacher of a big school, you can choose the easiest way for you.

The technique to wear easily

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The technique to wear easily

To wear kimono is easy is if you are used to it, but it is hard to get used to. This is why the technique to wear easily is being made.

[Two piece kimono]
It is a kimono separated into two pieces of top and bottom to be worn as clothes.
Most of them are found to be two piece kimono at a glance, so they won’t be used as substitutes for kimono. However, they are used as Japanese-style work clothes and new types of Yukata, taking advantage of their designs.

[Two piece tsukuriobi (making band)]
This is obi separated into two parts; for your waist and for otaiko (drum) part. Otaiko part is already shaped. After putting obi on your waist, tie Otaiko with a string on your back, and hide its joint with obiage. It is used not only by those who are not used to tying obi but also by old people who have difficulty in reaching around their backs.

[One piece tsukuriobi]
It is called “tsukuriobi without cutting”. Otaiko part is just sewn on it.
Tie the otaiko part with a string on your back, put obi sretched from it on your waist, and hide its edge under otaiko. After that, tie obijime so that hidden edge won’t come out. Its feature is that it will be back to the original shape when the string is pulled out. I think “One piece tsukuriobi” is a little more difficult to make than “Two piece tsukuriobi”.

Free kimono lot winner #6

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Do you want Free KIMONO?  Click here and register now!

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Thank you Furicle for my new kimono won from the prize lottery! I have taken photos, here:
http://kimono-life.blogspot.com/2013/10/lottery-kimono-from-furicle.html

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Free kimono lot winner #5

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Here are the photos of the Kimono I win.
Thank you very much, it’s beautifull. It’s a real pleasure to wear it.
Best regards,
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Free kimono lot winner #4

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“This morning I received my prize, I was so surprised, it’s so beautiful.
着物を送ったこととても感動しました。
どうもありがとうございます。
リン。”

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Free kimono lot winner #3

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“Thank you so much! I am very excited about the prize!”
“I have my pictures for you! The obi is so beautiful! Thank you so much again!”

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